Sixty Women, Two Unknown Men
Ten minutes on footThe most photographed façade in Cannes has carried sixty portrait bas-reliefs for a century. Nobody who works there has noticed.
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The Accident That Made Cannes
Five minutes on footA closed river, a dying daughter, and the man who never meant to stay.
Read onLeaving the Autostrada at Savona
2 hr 10 by carWhere the road east stops being a means and becomes the point of the day.
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Two Names, One Bridge and a Chapel in the Woods
40 min by carA Roman road down to the river, a chapel nobody locks, and a bridge that changes its name depending on which bank you are standing on.
Read onDinner Inside the Wall
25 min by carLe Chat Noble, where the kitchen is younger than the masonry by six centuries.
Read onThe House Gide Rented
30 min by carFifteen years in Cabris, told through one terrace and the man who kept coming back to it.
Read onAn Hour at Cours Saleya, Properly Spent
40 min by trainThe coffee, the market, the climb to the view — in that order, and slowly.
Read onContents
Everything published, newest first · the archive is the contents page
Lives and PlacesCabris Keeps It to ItselfCorsica on the horizon, three Nobel laureates at one café table, and not a plaque between them.
25 Aug 2026 Lives and PlacesSixty Women, Two Unknown MenThe Carlton's third floor, unread for a century.
28 May 2026 Worth the EffortTwo Names, One Bridge and a Chapel in the WoodsA bridge that changes its name depending on which bank you are standing on.
14 May 2026 Walls and StonesThe House Gide RentedFifteen years in Cabris, told through one terrace.
30 Apr 2026 Bread and WineDinner Inside the WallLe Chat Noble, within its medieval masonry.
16 Apr 2026 The Slow HoursAn Hour at Cours Saleya, Properly SpentThe coffee, the market, the climb — in that order.
02 Apr 2026 The Long WayLeaving the Autostrada at SavonaThe road east, taken as the point.
19 Mar 2026The Untold World
We walk every day through a world nobody has told. The most photographed building in this city has carried sixty faces for a century, and no one who works there has ever looked up. Foolscap exists for the looking up — why we do what we do, in one essay.
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